Lesson 3 of 7 in Riding Fundamentals

Full‑Lock Figure‑Eights

A full-lock figure-eight is two slow circles joined in the middle, ridden with the bars turned as far as they go. It trains balance, clutch and throttle timing and lower-body steering at walking pace, all at once. Put two markers a few bike-lengths apart and ride round them in an eight: eyes looking through the turn, bars at full lock, weight on the outside peg, a light drag of rear brake and the clutch slipping. Start wide, then move the markers closer until you're at full lock with no dabs, in both directions.

Updated September 2026. Sources are listed below. How we work

On this page
  1. Why figure-eights matter in hard enduro
  2. How a slow, full-lock turn works
  3. What each control does in the turn
  4. The switch in the middle
  5. Figure-eight progression
  6. Figure-eight mistakes and fixes
  7. A 25-minute figure-eight session
  8. Progress cues: you're ready to move on when…
  9. Figure-eight questions
Line drawing of a rider standing on the footpegs of a dirt bike, riding slowly past a traffic cone on flat dirt.
Two markers and a patch of flat dirt: the whole drill. The skill is doing it slowly.

Why figure-eights matter in hard enduro

Tight turns teach balance, throttle and clutch timing, and lower-body steering. They're the safest place to learn traction management: the speed is low, the ground is flat and a mistake means a dab, not a crash.

Hard enduro is full of turns that have to be ridden at walking pace: switchbacks on climbs, turns between trees, U-turns on narrow trail, lining up for a log or a rock step. Riders who can't turn slowly either put a foot down, take a wider line into worse ground, or stop and drag the bike round.

The figure-eight works because it combines every control. Dirt Bike Magazine's balance feature calls full-lock turns "great for learning clutch and throttle control to maintain pressure and balance", and describes the method: "applying pressure to the front and rear brakes while using smooth throttle control and lightly slipping the clutch". The eight adds one more thing a circle can't: the switch in the middle, where the bike stands up and leans the other way. That's the move you make every time the trail changes direction.

How a slow, full-lock turn works

At walking pace, a bike balances in a turn by leaning into it. The tighter the turn, the more it has to lean. Your job is to let the bike lean while your body stays balanced over it.

  • Look through the turn. Turn your head and look at where you'll be in half a circle, not at the marker or the front wheel. The Trials Training Center says "the most common mistake in turning is to let the head fall into the turn", which forces you to add speed to stay up.
  • Let the bars go to full lock. Don't fight the bars. At the slowest speeds, full lock is where they want to be.
  • Body upright, bike leaning. Keep your torso tall and let the bike lean under you. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation's (MSF) coaching tip for sharp turns: "Keep your weight centered over the motorcycle, lean the motorcycle underneath you when turning sharply."
  • Weight the outside peg. Dirt Bike Magazine: "When turning the bike to the right, you will be weighting the outside peg (the left one)." Outside-peg weight balances the lean and pushes the tyres into the ground.
  • Clutch and rear brake together. Hold a steady throttle, keep the clutch slipping and keep a light drag on the rear brake. The brake stops the bike surging; the clutch keeps it driving. The MSF says to "put foot over the rear brake, and use the brake lightly" and to use the clutch friction point "to prevent the engine from stalling."
  • Front brake, only a touch. A little front brake settles the bike. Too much near full lock tips it into the turn.

The two failures tell you what to change. Falling into the turn: a small release of the clutch gives drive and stands the bike up. Running wide: pull a little clutch in, add a touch more rear brake, and turn your head further.

What each control does in the turn

ControlWhat it doesCommon error
Eyes and headLead the bike round; set the size of the circleLooking at the marker or the front wheel
BarsAt full lock, held lightlyPulling against the lock, or letting it straighten
Outside pegBalances the lean and loads the tyresWeight on the inside peg or the seat
ThrottleSteady, slightly above idleRevs rising as the bars turn
ClutchSlipping: out to stand the bike up, in to slow itFully out, so the bike surges or stalls
Rear brakeLight, steady drag for stabilityNo brake, or so much the bike stops
Front brakeA touch to settle, or noneToo much, which drops the bike into the turn

Swipe the table sideways to see every column.

The switch in the middle

The crossover is where most dabs happen. The bike has to stand up, the bars have to go from one lock to the other, and your weight has to move to the other peg, all at walking pace.

Do it in this order:

  1. Look first. As you finish one circle, turn your head to the next.
  2. Stand the bike up with a small release of the clutch and pressure on the outside peg.
  3. Swap pegs. Your weight moves to what will be the new outside peg. A push on the new inside peg tips the bike into the new turn: the Trials Training Center calls this "steering with your feet".
  4. Bars to the other lock, and settle back into the clutch-and-brake drag.

Jarrod Bewley, an outright winner of the Australian 4-Day Enduro, told Transmoto that standing forward over the bike in tight turns "helps me flip-flop the bike from left to right in one action." The figure-eight is where you learn that flip.

Line drawing of a rider seated on a dirt bike riding slowly past a traffic cone on flat dirt.
Seated is fine for your first eights. The same rules apply: head turned, weight to the outside, clutch and rear brake working together.

Figure-eight progression

You need a flat, grippy area and two markers. Do every step in both directions. Most riders have a weak side; spend extra time on it.

  1. 1Big, seated eights

    Place the markers about six bike-lengths apart. Ride a relaxed eight round them, seated, in first or second. Focus on looking through each turn and keeping the engine note steady. The MSF also practises its sharp-turn exercise seated first, then standing.

    Top-down diagram of a figure-eight drill: two small round markers on flat ground, a dashed figure-eight path with arrows looping round both, and a measuring line between the markers.
    The layout from above. 1 Markers · 2 Start about six bike-lengths apart, then close in towards two · 3 The switch in the middle, where you change direction.
  2. 2Big, standing eights

    Same size, now standing. Weight the outside peg in each turn and keep your torso tall while the bike leans. Feel the clutch and light rear brake working together.

  3. 3Tighten until full lock

    Move the markers a little closer each time you can ride five clean eights. The MSF's instruction for its figure-8 drill: "As your skills increase, move the markers closer together so that the figure 8 becomes smaller." Keep going until the bars are at full lock through most of each circle. Around two bike-lengths between markers is a good target.

  4. 4As slowly as possible

    Keep the markers where they are and halve your speed. Dirt Bike Magazine's instruction: "You want to perform this drill as slowly as you possibly can." Slower means more clutch and brake work and more balance. If you dab, you've found your limit for today.

  5. 5Lean the bike further

    Once slow eights are clean, let the bike lean further under you while your body stays upright. Dirt Bike Magazine says this "helps you gain more confidence in letting the bike lean beneath you" and teaches more outside-peg pressure. The tighter and slower the turn, the more the bike leans and the less your body does.

  6. 6Add slopes and bad ground

    Move the eight onto a gentle slope, so one turn is uphill and one is downhill. Then try loose or slippery ground. The Trials Training Center recommends practising turns in "the most slippery, greasy spot possible", because poor technique won't work there. Shane Watts' advice for tight downhill switchbacks applies: stand, "grip the tank with your knees and apply both brakes", and "weight the outside peg heavily".

Figure-eight mistakes and fixes

  • You keep running wide of the marker.

    Fix: Turn your head further and look past the marker to your exit. Then use a touch more rear brake and a little less clutch to slow down, and let the bike lean more.

  • The bike falls into the turn and you dab.

    Fix: Your head or body fell into the turn, or drive stopped. Keep your torso upright over the outside peg and let a little clutch out to stand the bike up.

  • The engine stalls mid-turn.

    Fix: The clutch went out too far or the rear brake dragged too hard. Keep the throttle steady and slightly raised, and pull the lever in a touch as the engine note drops.

  • The revs jump as the bars reach full lock.

    Fix: Turning the bars rotates your right wrist. Brace your thumb against the throttle housing, or adjust your grip so your wrist stays still as the bars turn.

  • One direction is always worse.

    Fix: Almost everyone has a weak side. Ride two eights the weak way for every one the strong way until they feel the same.

  • You look at the front wheel.

    Fix: The bike goes where you look. Pick a point beyond the marker and keep your eyes on it until the next switch.

A 25-minute figure-eight session

Take a short break every ten minutes to cool the clutch.

TimeDrillWhat to focus on
0–5 minBig eights, seated then standingEyes through the turn, steady engine note.
5–12 minTighten the markers step by stepFive clean eights before each move.
12–18 minTightest eight, as slowly as possibleClutch and rear brake together. No dabs.
18–22 minWeak side onlySame speed and size as your good side.
22–25 minEights on a gentle slopeOutside peg, both brakes on the downhill turn.

Swipe the table sideways to see every column.

Progress cues: you're ready to move on when…

  • You can ride five clean full-lock eights in a row in both directions without a dab.
  • The engine note stays quiet and steady all the way round, including the switch.
  • Your cadence is steady: each circle takes about the same time.
  • You can halve your speed and still ride clean eights.
  • You can ride an eight on a gentle slope without the downhill turn running wide.

Figure-eight questions

Should I ride figure-eights sitting or standing?

Both. Start seated to learn the pattern, then stand. Standing is how you'll ride most tight turns in hard enduro, and it makes the switch from one lock to the other much faster.

How close should the markers be?

Start about six bike-lengths apart and move them closer until the bars are at full lock. Around two bike-lengths is a good target. When a turn is too tight to ride round at full lock, you're into pivot-turn territory.

Why use the rear brake if I'm already going slowly?

The drag gives the clutch something to push against, so the bike can't surge. It makes the speed steadier and the bike more stable. The clutch feathering drills use the same idea in a straight line.

What comes after figure-eights?

Static balance takes the speed to zero. Later, pivot turns handle turns too tight to ride round at full lock.

Related lessons and guides

Spotted something wrong? Tell us